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The Taco Project

While I’ve often lamented the lack of variety of Silicon Valley’s Mexican restaurants, we are awash in taquerias. As I drive around the valley looking for new places to eat I’m forever coming across new ones. And so I’m unveiling the Taco Project, a systematic sampling of Silicon Valley’s taco riches. In the weeks and months ahead, I’ll be stopping in at taquerias in the South Bay (and a few beyond) to try their wares and I hope you’ll steer me toward some particularly good tacos as well. Specifically, I’ll be eating al pastor and carne asada tacos. Why just those? Well, the pork and beef tacos are my favorite and I think these two varieties offer insight into a taqueria’s taco prowess.

For me, a good taco is Mexican food stripped down to its essentials: a tortilla topped with a some delicious bits of meat and salsa. A good taco is an exercise restraint. The twin tortillas should be about as big as beer coaster. It’s not so overloaded with toppings that it falls apart or topples to the floor when you bring it to your mouth. It should be gone in just two to three bites. I look upon tacos made with cheese, sour cream, lettuce, and guacamole with suspicion. Cilantro and a bit of diced onion, however, are good things. And a good taco shouldn’t cost more than a buck or two.

And so here are a few of the first tacos I encountered in these early days of the Taco Project.

Tacos Eva 1565 Mabury Rd., San Jose (across from flea market parking lot).

I have a soft spot for taco trucks so when I drove past this beauty my heart leaped. As it turns out, $1 got me one of the best tacos I’ve had in these parts. The al pastor taco is particularly delicious with dry spice hints of cinnamon or clove. (The nice family inside wouldn’t tell me what it was). The meat itself was crisp and juicy. The carne asada taco was no slouch either with tiny bits of caramelized beef and juicy goodness inside. The thin but spicy salsa spooned on top was the perfect accompaniment. Extra points for the charred serrano chiles and pickled jalapenos that come with these beauties. Tacos Eva sets the bar very high. Here’s what mine looked like seconds before I chowed down:

Tacos El Rancherito No. 2 1729 McKee Rd., San Jose.

Tacos El Rancherito is another eastside SJ gem. The tacos go for a buck a piece but what’s special about this place is an extra dollar will get you tacos with freshly made tortillas. It’s money well spent. The tortillas are chewy and soft but sturdy enough to handle a payload of meat, onions and salsa. The al pastor is the winner here. The succulent bits of roasted pork commingle with the pleasingly spicy salsa to create a rich, OK greasy, sauce. Add a big squirt of lemon juice and you’ve got taco nirvana. The carne asada lacked the tender juiciness of the pork but it’s still pretty good piled onto one of those fresh tortillas. Here’s what they looked like:

La Cabana Taqueria 2332 Mission St., Santa Cruz.

My final stop of my first tour de taco was La Cabana Taqueria. It’s on the Westside of Santa Cruz so it’s not Silicon Valley but it’s near my house and I was hungry. While Silicon Valley is awash in taco riches, Santa Cruz is taco challenged. La Cabana used to be located in Davenport but opened recently next to the Arrow Surf Shop. But it does little to elevate the quality of Santa Cruz’ tacos scene.

Look at this:

Too much of everything. The weight and heat of all that beef and pork quickly ripped my tacos in half so I had to eat them with a fork. That’s unacceptable for a food that’s supposed to be a quick bite you eat on the street. And the pork and beef were adequate but otherwise unremarkable. Santa Cruz has the surf but Silicon Valley is the place for tacos.

The Taco Tally

1. Tacos Eva

2. Tacos El Rancherito No. 2

3. La Cabana