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[whitespace] Winter Brews

By Todd Dayton

ON THE OTHER END of the spectrum are those who scoff at the run-of-the-mill toddy or fortified coffee. After all, it's the alcohol that warms the body and spirit, not the temperature at which it's consumed. Every year, local breweries placate these barley-fed palates with ales brewed for the winter season. Generally darker and heavier in flavor, not to mention some clocking in above 7 percent alcohol, these beers are made for long, cold winter nights.

Sierra Nevada annually puts out Celebration Ale in a Christmas blitz, though it can still be found long after the holiday buzz is over. It's an extra-strength version of their Pale Ale, only the high hoppiness is well balanced by a robust flavor. Anderson Valley's Winter Solstice may remind you too much of pumpkin pie with its cinnamon-nutmeg aroma, but the holiday flavors are delicately tempered by a rich, full-bodied tone.

A surprisingly great beer is Golden Pacific's Hibernator, a dense Scottish-like ale with chocolate malt overtones. Pyramid's Snowcap is a favorite every year, both for its strong and complex flavor and for its high alcohol content. From Bend, Ore., comes another perennial winner, Deschutes' Jubel Ale, boasting a sweet and heavy flavor with hints of chocolate and even darker aromas. Davis' Sudwerk German-style brewery provided Dopple Bock, the only winter lager I tried this year, and I was glad I did. Smooth, heavy and even-tempered, Dopple Bock packed a decent punch without the sometimes super-hoppiness of many California cold-weather ales.

While some of these beers can be found at the corner market, your best bet for a decent selection is a specialty beer bar. I found a great selection at Toronado this year. One word of advice: Just don't try to sample them all in one sitting or you'll find yourself off your stool in no time.

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From the January 18, 1999 issue of the Metropolitan.

Copyright © Metro Publishing Inc. Maintained by Boulevards New Media.



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