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Cool Restaurant List

David Fortin Mediterranean Latitude: 42 Degrees By Paul Adams 170 Cool: manufactured + stylish This, I suspect, is the coolest restaurant in San Francisco. This underground restaurant does not have a location known to the public, its phone number is unlisted (and changes frequently), and getting a table seems to require some sort of personal approval. As of this writing, I have not been to 170, although I continue to try. My informants are remarkably smug and close-mouthed about their experiences, but there is a handful of facts I've been able to extract. It's upstairs. The clientele includes a number of people you've heard of. The food is new French and exquisitely artful; the bread is the best imaginable. There are fewer than a dozen tables. They do that dumb two-different-colored-tablecloths-overlapping-at-a-45-degree-angle thing. The wait staff, though stylish and attractive, do not betray any inkling of a vocation that could conceivably thrill them more than waiting. To get a table, you have to call the top-secret phone number (if you can get it) and leave a message. If you're lucky, you get called back. The only dining option is the $170 prix-flxe menu. If you have any information regarding this mysterious restaurant, please write us. We will keep you posted as well. Address: unknown; phone: unknown. 42 Degrees Cool: civil + manufactured + stylish/nifty One feels extremely well taken care of in the sumptuous burgundy velvet seats of 42 Degrees, overlooking the Bay, accompanied by a jazz trio. The artifacts--tableware, candleholder, menus--are quite pleasing. The wait staff are skilled, well informed and charismatic. The cuisine is Mediterranean (42 degrees of latitude, get it?) and creative; menu items include calf's tongue salad with quail eggs, mizuna and pancetta vinaigrette; pheasant cooked two ways, with Brussels sprouts, chestnuts and pomegranate reduction; Iberian blood sausage with candied tomatoes; and roasted marrow bones with toast. The restaurant is set back in the industrial zone, hard to find from the street, in a striking high-ceilinged building. Open kitchen, of course. In the spring try dining on their patio. 235 16th St.; 415/777-5558. Backflip Cool: manufactured One is reluctant to include Backflip in a list of cool restaurants, because that is so transparently what it wants. Still, one is generous. Backflip's food, although obviously carefully thought out (by silly chef Sam Mogannam), is lackluster. It's billed as "cocktail cuisine," which seems to mean a cross between greasy and bland snacks. The cocktails are not too special and the service is OK. So why is it cool? Well, it's a '60s sci-fi-inspired room in which one can spot rock stars and the like. A sort of Hard Rock Cafe for the Guided by Voices set. 601 Eddy; 415/771-3547. Betelnut Cool: manufactured + stylish/nifty The concept behind Betelnut is that it's a pejiu wu, or Asian beer house, where cold beer traditionally complements spicy food. Of course it's no such thing--it's a Union Street restaurant--but that's the idea. The atmosphere is dark and bustling, with a vivid red bar and what looks like some vintage Asian decorations. The food is Pan-Asian, specializing in plates of delicious small spicy snacks, such as fried sun-dried anchovies, limey steamed mussels, and little samosas. In addition, they offer a variety of soups, dumpling-type dishes, noodle-type dishes, et cetera. There are also a number of quaintly named concept cocktails, if that's what you're into. 2030 Union; 415/929-8855. Sweet Ending: Millennium dessert Bruno's Cool: stylish Yes, it's been taken over by middle-agers who naturally dress the way last year's hipster clientele just pretended to. Yes, it's noisy and crowded and you have to wait on weekends. But such deep nurturing booths! and huge glasses of wine! and usually delicious food! 2389 Mission; 415/550-7455. Boulevard Cool: manufactured + stylish + authentic This is one of the peaks of California cuisine. The menu changes frequently, so if you're an ahi aflcionado with an expense account (or just deep pockets), stop by often. The interior is striking, fraught with highly polished surfaces and enormous bouquets; choose a seat with a view of the room and watch the city's high rollers enjoying their foie gras. 1 Mission; 415/543-6084. Campton Place Cool: stylish What do you do when you're starving and it's 4am? This is probably the tastiest 24-hour restaurant in town; unfortunately, the late-night service is room service, and you have to have a room in the hotel to enjoy it. BUT even for those not fortunate enough to be living in a four-star suite, the restaurant is worth checking out. Chef Todd Humphries supposedly roasts and grinds the spices fresh every day, which is indicative of the attention to detail here. The food is superb, if slightly unusual; menu items include the sublime--risotto with white alba truffles and black truffle broth--as well as the somewhat ridiculous--chilled foie gras and kohlrabi ravioli with rose-hip and crabapple jelly. There are many a la carte offerings as well as a vegetarian and a seasonal tasting menu. The atmosphere is subdued but classy, with lots of beige. Service can be a bit desultory. Incidentally, Campton Place was described by The New York Times as serving the best martini in the U.S. 340 Stockton; 415/781-5555. Fleur de Lys Cool: stylish + civil + manufactured An intoxicating experience, which begins when one is ushered from the featureless entryway into the fabulously ornate red-canopied central dining chamber and continues throughout Hubert Keller's lavish meal. Far from a casual dining experience--this is one of the very few San Francisco restaurants that requires the wearing of a jacket--a dinner at Fleur de Lys is a powerful occurrence. There are generally a vegetarian and a carnivorous tasting menu available, as well as extensive a la carte selections. The lush dishes include things like "foie gras on roasted shallots with truffle potato coulis and smoked duck" and "grilled venison tournedos on braised endive with lingonberry sauce." Desserts are pretty good, and the service is somewhat on the invasive side of helpful: the (adorably French accented) staff are eager to do everything they possibly can for you. 777 Sutter; 415/673-7779. Fringale Cool: stylish/nifty + civil Chef Gerald Hirigoyen brings stellar Basque-tinged mod-French food to the San Francisco elite, in this small bistro whose close-packed tables and blond wood lend a vaguely shipboard feel to the experience. ("Basque-tinged" means that unless you know the language you're going to have to ask 'What's ardi-gasna'?) But the wait staff are more helpful than average, which is in keeping with the soothing, almost pampering, atmosphere here. As on a ship, careful attention is paid by the crew to keeping a steady course and a secure balance--flavors and textures are beautifully harmonious and withstand close scrutiny. On the whole the food is luxurious and comforting: foie gras medallions poached and chilled in a sweet duck broth, iced armagnac and coffee parfait, and the like. 570 Fourth St.; 415/543-0573. Greens Cool: authentic + civil + stylish/nifty It's hard to get to. It has possibly the best Bay view of any restaurant. The warehouse it's in is quite impressive. It's a historical landmark of the pioneer days of gourmet vegetarianism. And the dining experience is exceptional, exceptional. What makes the difference is current chef Annie Somerville's emphasis on the quality of the ingredients, which are in many cases specially grown (squeezed, fermented, whatever) for the restaurant; chances are your menu will name the farm your salad's from. Dishes are generally either roughly Mediterranean or roughly Southwestern: e.g. Moroccan carrot soup with spiced yogurt and cilantro; eggplant and roasted pepper pizza with gaeta olives, provolone and fontina cheeses; corn crepes with smoked cheese, marjoram and tomatillo sauce. A nice place. Fort Mason Center; 415/771-6222. David Fortin Country Charm: Hawthorne Lane Hawthorne Lane Cool: stylish + civil The charm of Hawthorne Lane is that, set like a gem in the heart of business SoMa, it nonetheless can temporarily sustain the illusion of being somewhere, well, less urban. From the handsome wrought iron in the courtyard to the expanses of polished wood, big spaces, and recurring floral motifs inside, Hawthorne Lane resonates with echoes of the country estate of our dreams. Meat is underplayed, resulting in a lighter-than-average meal which shows the influence of culinary trends while not entirely surrendering the rudder to the winds of caprice. On the whole, the food is very good. The place is not intimate, but it's delightful for larger groups: Bring the folks from the office. And for some reason the service can be bad, and they're always hiring new waiters. (One hypothesis: All the people who would otherwise be good waiters are busy being mediocre Web designers.) But hey, that's cool. 22 Hawthorne Lane; 415/777-9779. Indigo Cool: manufactured + stylish/nifty New and successful, Indigo features pointedly seasonal cuisine in a cool, elegant but sort of haphazard setting. The decor includes elegant wood trim, little blue tiles, striking light flxtures, deep velvet, and a big neoclassical bas-relief. There are random elements of attempted cuteness (chef John Gilbert is credited on the menu as "Chef de Food") that don't necessarily work but don't really intrude either. Dishes are typifled by California twists on American fare, from pork chops in sage-viognier sauce to goat cheesecake. It's surprisingly hard to get a table, especially pre-opera (there's a 5-7pm prix flxe), but worth it. Try the outstanding bread pudding. 687 McAllister St.; 415/673-9353. Kabuto Sushi Cool: authentic + stylish/nifty Why is sushi cool? For starters, it's neat and discrete. Good things come in small packages, and some of the best are bite-size. (Hors d'oeuvres are cool for the same reason, but let's save that discussion for another time.) Plus it's got that exotic flair: Disregarding 49ers rolls and their ilk, there's still a pretty flrm boundary between what's sushi and what's American--as opposed to the blurring of cultural boundaries which gives us, say, adulterous crap like "wraps." And sushi comes with its own little rituals, rarefled vocabulary and exclusive corpus of knowledge. Kabuto is nowhere near as trendy as Ebisu, but it's remarkably good, and the parking is easier. 5116 Geary; 415/752-5652. La Folie Cool: civil + stylish/nifty + authentic Up on Polk Street, a cheery, charming bistro with intense, outstanding food. The happy ambiance is created by ethereal murals and friendly wait staff, but once the food arrives it's going to require close attention. Try the "Chef" tasting menu--Roland Passot knows his stuff, including such prizes as "roti of quail and squab, stuffed with wild mushrooms, wrapped in crispy potato strings, jus naturel with truffles" and "blanquette of sweetbread and lobster with leeks, shiitake and morel mushrooms, parsley coulis." Also a prix fixe menu is prepared to celebrate most holidays, but reserve early! The chef began his career in Lyon, culinary center of the world, and has owned and operated La Folie for 10 years come March. He holds the title Maitre Cuisinier de France. 2316 Polk; 415/776-5577. La Rondalla Cool: authentic A restaurant with limited frills, La Rondalla has one big thing to offer. The food is pretty good, and the portions are quite large, but business is best as the bars start closing: La Rondalla's kitchen is open until 4am. It receives the outflow of hipsters young and old from the Mission's many bars, accommodating them in booths, on counter stools or in the back room, with endless greasy chips and a large menu of heavy favorites. Situate yourself and watch starved, unruly groups and couples, the evening's glitz gone, downing water after water and overindulging in enchiladas. Also featuring nightly mariachi bands. 901 Valencia St.; 415/647-7474. LuLu Cool: civil When the weather is right, you can smell LuLu a couple of blocks away. A huge wood-flred oven and grill cook sumptuous meats in a loosely Provençal style under the supervision of the inspired Reed Hearon. The room is large and sunken, with playful decor (including those little blue tiles that every restaurant seems to have these days). This is a good general-purpose restaurant, and a place where one feels comfortable and well taken care of. Things run smoothly; the service is quite good, and unpleasant surprises are rare. For some reason the crowd seems a little less boring than that of most South of Market restaurants. 816 Folsom; 415/495-5775. Veggie Alternative: Millennium dish. Millennium Cool: civil + stylish/nifty It's 1998, ready or not, and the habit of eating animal products is not only immoral, unhealthy and unsavory; it's also decidedly unfashionable. Millennium houses vegan chic in a spacious, airy, tiled room adjoining the Abigail Hotel. Most of the food is very good, and the desserts are superb (the best dessert this writer has encountered in San Francisco was at Millennium: a plum napoleon). Incidentally, this restaurant is recommended for Valentine's Day dates: $125 gets an "Aphrodisiac Dinner" for two and then a room in the very charming hotel, on the 15th. Or just try their Aphrodisiac prix fixe for two, at $99 on Feb. 13 or 14. 246 McAllister St.; 415/487-9800. Pair Cool: stylish + civil Pair is a new and largely unacclaimed restaurant, and possibly an unlikely choice for this list. Nevertheless, it's very cool. Occupying one of the city's "cursed restaurant corners" (the site most recently of the delicious Bella Luna--hopefully Pair's valet parking will help neutralize the curse), it is a dark, woody, intimate room with intriguing nooks (including a lounging area up front and a coffee/dessert area in back) and four commanding crescent booths. There are also a couple of somewhat disturbing murals, should your attention wander. The food is mostly expertly grilled, with some terrific and pungently subtle sauces and a minimum of gratuitous flreworks. Their ingredients, particularly the meats, are of top quality, and the wine list, gradated on a spectrum of flavor, is well assembled. The restaurant can function as a stage for romance, relaxation or gourmandizing: whatever you like. 2299 Van Ness Ave.; 415/674-4094. St. Francis Fountain Cool: authentic It's surprising this place is still around, it's so cool. It doesn't look like much has been updated here since the old days. They still offer a selection of homemade ice creams and fountain/ ice-cream concoctions, delicious luncheonette fare and of course the remarkable homemade candies that are shipped far and wide. 2801 24th St.; 415/826-4200 Shanghai 1930 Cool: stylish/nifty + authentic + civil Unabashedly cool and cavernous, Shanghai is all black and white and scarlet and ocher, with low ceilings and silk upholstery. The kind of place where a thin black-clad kid pays for his date and himself with a thousand-dollar bill, where large groups of Asian business people and stylish couples can sink languorously into adjacent booths. Close your eyes and let soft Cantonese conversation and live hot-jazz piano bewitch you. The food is of exceptional quality and far from standard-Chinese-restaurant expectations. The reworked Shanghainese banquet cuisine includes Buddha Jumps Over the Wall ("sun-dried abalone, shark's fln, preserved scallops, oysters and blackened chicken slow-steamed in superior double-boiled broth in an earthen wine jug"), Peace and Reunion chicken (whole, stuffed with eight treasures, steamed in lotus leaves and carved at your table) and other remarkable dishes. You can order fish shaped like a squirrel or a bunch of grapes, jellied mutton, or the superb crispy glazed eel threads (an excellent flnger-snack). The adjoining Guanxi Lounge (guanxi means influence) is remarkably opulent, with dark polished wood and deep vintage-leather seats, and offers, in addition to the usual private humidors and wine cellar, a personal soundproof video conference/karaoke room, where the most exclusive iniquities may take place. The Guanxi Lounge is restricted to members. 141 Stuart; 415/896-5688. David Fortin Upscale Mission: Slanted Door Slanted Door Cool: civil + nifty Fine in every way. The food is always superlative, the service reliable, the atmosphere comfortable, the details seen to. The clientele is that blend of Peninsulans, Paciflc Heightsers and leopard-print locals that crowd the inner Mission relentlessly. The cuisine is luxurious upscale Vietnamese, well designed and exquisitely implemented, with scintillating clear flavors and a distinct intrigue to some of the dishes. The sautéed glass noodles are always excellent. 584 Valencia St.; 415/861-8032. Slow Club Cool: manufactured + stylish Brought to you by the people who brought you 42 Degrees, the Slow Club serves small dishes (the idea is that you get several, tapas-style; there's a menu of roughly 20) to media people and other well-dressed types in a dark, low-ceilinged room. The dishes consist of little roasted things, little fried things, little puréed things, salads, et cetera. The drinks are tasty, the waiters friendly and helpful, and the ambiance is a pleasant blend of subdued and gently throbbing. 2501 Mariposa St.; 415/241-9390. Tadich Grill Cool: authentic Those who are on the cutting edge of San Francisco's latest culinary innovations may consider the food at Tadich Grill boring, but it's traditional American (since 1849) with an emphasis on seafood, from steak to sand dabs to hangtown fry, with no mesclun in between. An excellent escape from the nonsensical cuisine so difficult to avoid in this city. The room is what you'd expect: dark wood, tall booths, people in suits. 240 California St.; 415/391-1849. Yank Sing Cool: nifty + authentic Dim sum, but not exactly what you get on Grant Street. It's quite a bit spiffier, for one thing, and also the cart-borne offerings are more varied: many types of small plates, roasted, grilled, etc., in addition to the little dumplings and buns one is accustomed to flnding. There are delicious individual slices of Peking duck, gingery crab, stir-fried vegetables, and much more. Yank Sing closes at 3pm on weekdays and 4pm on weekends, and, especially on weekends, it can be difficult to get a table, so plan ahead. 427 Battery and 49 Stevenson; 415/781-1111 or 415/4949. Zuni Cool: stylish/nifty There's not too much to say about Zuni. It has maybe a tiny identity problem, and a rather odd shape, but it's always well populated (in terms of both quantity and quality), the food is consistently delicious, and the staff is slick. What pushes it into the ranks of the cool, though, is its huge oyster list and its sidewalk seating. Also, the roast chicken is remarkable. 1658 Market St.; 415/552-2522. [ San Francisco | MetroActive Central | Archives ]